An edible hedge is a hedgerow designed to produce food for human consumption. In addition to providing inexpensive and nutritious food for your family, edible hedges can:

• provide privacy
• reduce heating bills and protect sensitive livestock by serving as a windbreak
• extend the growing season by creating a protected microclimate for tender plants
• reinforce fences, or even act as fences by themselves
• reduce agricultural and stormwater runoff
• reduce erosion
• provide food and habitat for beneficial insects, birds, and other wildlife
• serve as a wildlife corridor
• provide fodder for livestock
• and more!

Planning Your Edible Hedge

Edible hedges typically incorporate a variety of plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, herbs, wildflowers, grasses, and groundcovers.

Each plant should contribute one or more functions to the hedge. For an edible hedge, the most important function is edibility. Choose primarily plants that produce edible fruits, nuts, seeds, berries, leaves, roots, or other parts.

However, edibility should not be the only function of the plants in your hedge. For example, the food production of your hedge can be increased by 30% or more by incorporating plants known to attract pollinators and other beneficial insects, often known as “insectary plants.” Nitrogen-fixing plants such as clover and other legumes improve the health of nearby plants and can reduce or completely eliminate the need for synthetic fertilizers. Finally, groundcovers and other “living mulches” keep the soil cool and moist and reduce the need for watering, as well as providing improved habitat for earthworms and other healthy soil fauna. Depending on the secondary purposes of your edible hedge, you may also want to choose plants that provide other functions as well, such as dense shrubs for privacy, or the host plant for a favorite species of butterfly.

Depending on the size of your property, you may or may not want to include trees in your hedge. Large fruit and nut trees can overwhelm a small lot. However, there are many dwarf fruit tree varieties and small understory trees such as dogwood and crabapple that can make excellent additions to an edible hedge, even in a small yard. If you have the space for large mast-producing trees, a few of the best choices include native oaks, hickories, and pecans. Non-native fruit trees such as domestic apples and pears also make great choices for an edible hedge, especially if your main goal is food for your family.

The most common plants in most hedges are shrubs. There are dozens of great native and non-native mast-producing shrubs that are good choices for an edible hedge, including blueberry, raspberry, blackberry, serviceberry, hazelnut, elderberry, chokecherry, aronia, wild cherry, wild plum, gooseberry, currant, shrub roses, and viburnums.

In addition to edible trees and shrubs, incorporate herbs, annual and perennial vegetables, native wildflowers and grasses, and groundcovers into your edible hedge.

Planting an Edible Hedge From Scratch

Whenever possible, choose a spot to plant your hedge with enough room for at least two staggered rows of plants. If you plan to use chemical pesticides or herbicides nearby, add an uncultivated grassy area up to several yards wide on either side of the hedge, if possible. The grassy buffer will help protect plants and beneficial insects in the hedge from chemical drift.

Mulch your new hedge heavily to reduce weeding and watering needs while it becomes established.

Converting an Existing Hedge

If you already have a hedge that you want to convert to an edible hedge, thin it strategically and start planting edible shrubs, trees, and herbaceous plants in the gaps and edges. A good goal is to convert a single row into two or three staggered rows of plants to encourage maximum productivity.

In order to reduce disturbance to the roots of the remaining established plants, don’t till the area you plan to plant. Instead dig individual holes for each new plant, and mulch heavily to reduce weeds. Laying down a layer of newspaper or cardboard under the mulch is a biodegradable way to kill turf grasses or other unwanted plants.

Analog forestry products are typically less productive on an individual basis than those raised in more traditional agricultural settings. However, the high degree of biodiversity in analog forests ensures a steady income for practitioners. Analog forestry also provides the same ecological benefits as natural climax forests, including erosion prevention and water purification.

To date, analog forestry has primarily been practiced in tropical environments. However, the edible forest gardening movement in temperate regions shares many principles with analog forestry, and if analog forestry does move on a wide scale into temperate regions, mast-producing trees and shrubs are likely to play a major role in most analog forest gardens due to their multifuctionality.

Learn More:

• International Analog Forestry Network

One of the biggest threats to urban trees is being removed because their roots crack or ruin sidewalks. Rubber sidewalks solve this problem because they are installed in interlocking modules, which are easily lifted and replaced for maintenance or to move or re-grade the sidewalk to protect it from incursions by tree roots.

Rubber sidewalks, which are made from recycled rubber tires, are also less susceptible to being distrubed by tree roots in the first place because they are more flexible than concrete, so the sidewalk bends around the root instead of being broken by it.

Another benefit to tree health is improved water filtration. Rubber sidewalks are water-permeable, allowing water to pass through the sidewalk and soak into the soil underneath. This improves the health of all nearby plants, including trees, and also helps reduce the likelihood of trees disrupting sidewalks, because they do not have to work so hard to get water. Permeable pavements also help prevent pollution of ground and surface water by stormwater runoff, and reduce the chances of slips and falls in snowy and icy conditions because they decrease ice buildup. As you might guess, slips and falls on rubber sidewalks are also less dangerous than similar falls on concrete sidewalks when they do occur because rubber sidewalks are softer and more shock absorbent.

To learn more about the benefits of rubber sidewalks, visit RubberSidewalks.com.

• Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) -This shade garden favorite has lovely, multicolored flowers that attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
• White Woodland Aster (Aster divaricatus) – Prolific, pretty white flowers attract butterflies and pollinators.
• Virgin’s bower (Clematis virginiana) – An aggressive, spreading vine with pretty white flowers.
• Broad-leaved shooting star (Dodecathon hendersonii) – This wildflower has bright magenta blosoms that resemble a falling star.
• Trout lily (Erythronium americanum) – This low-growing lily has beautiful yellow flowers.
• Coastal strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis) – Unlike the Barren strawberry, Coastal strawberries do produce tasty berries that are popular with both humans and birds.
• Wild geranium (Geranium maculatum) – Wild geranium has attractive pink blossoms and does best in partial shade.
• Sharp-lobed hepatica (Hepatica acutiloba) – An early spring bloomer with delicate, pretty white flowers.
• Bottlebrush grass (Hystrix patula) – The attractive spiky seedheads on this shade-loving grass resemble a bottlebrush.
• Wild lupine (Lupinus perennis) – A nitrogen-fixing legume with beautiful blue flowers that is the host plant for the endangered Karner Blue Butterfly.
• Foxglove beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis) – A handsome, prolific bloomer, Foxglove beardtongue prefers partial shade in open woodlands.
• Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum biflorum) – A handsome, flowering perennial that looks especially good around the base of trees.
• False Solomon’s Seal (Smilacina racemosa) – Showy clusters of white flowers are followed by bright red berries that are popular with birds.
• Zig Zag goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis) – Pretty yellow flowers that bloom in late summer.
• Barren strawberry (Waldsteinia fragarioides) – This spreading groundcover does not have edible berries, but does produce multitudes of small but pretty yellow flowers.

Good choices for non-native plants that tolerate dry shade include hostas, snowdrops, Spanish bluebell, lily-of-the-valley, and some coral bells. Some tough plants commonly grown in dry shade, such as vinca and English ivy, are well-behaved in some regions and invasive in others, so consult your local garden center or extension service before planting.

Dry shade can be improved by adding plenty of organic matter to the soil when planting, and mulching to conserve soil moisture.

Most of the most popular shade plants, however, continue to be non-native species, or non-native relatives of native species such as hostas, bleeding hearts, and non-native ferns. Though these plants are hardy, adaptable, and beautiful, native gardeners might prefer to look closer to home for perennials to brighten up the dark corners.

Some of our best native perennials for full-shade include:

Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina)

One of our most popular and adaptable native ferns, the beautiful Lady Fern likes well-drained, moist, or wet soils in full or partial shade. It is more tolerant of drought than other ferns, but may die back in dry conditions to re-emerge the following season  Lady ferns are hardy from zones 2-8 and provide cover and nesting material for many species of birds. Bears and elk are among the animals who use lady ferns as a food source. More great native ferns include the Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum pedatum), the Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris), and the Cinnamon Fern (Osmunda cinnamomea).

Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)

Another of our most popular native shade plants, the colorful and prolific blossoms of the Columbine attract butterflies and hummingbirds in spring. Columbines have spiky seedpods that make interesting additions to dried floral arrangements. They spread readily from seeds and have attractive foliage once the blooms are gone. Hardy to zone 3, they prefer well-drained soil and full or partial shade.

Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum)

One of the most unique and recognizable flowers in the world, the Jack-in-the-Pulpit also produces attractive bright red berries in late summer. It likes rich soils that are well-drained or moist and is hardy to zone 3.

Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense)

Though Wild Ginger is not related to its Asian namesake, it has a similar taste and can be used as seasoning in dishes calling for ginger. In addition to its edible qualities, Wild Ginger has attractive heart-shaped leaves and an unusual blossom. It requires deep shade and prefers rich, moist soil.

White Woodland Aster (Aster divaricatus)

Though asters are better known as sun loving plants like the beautiful New England Aster (Aster novae-angliae), there are a number of species that prefer full or partial shade. White Woodland Aster is the showiest of these, producing prolific white blossoms resembling small daisies for six weeks or more in late summer and early autumn. Woodland asters are especially good plants for people with dry shade, as they are extremely drought tolerant. Like sun-loving asters, shade-loving asters attract butterflies, bees, and other pollinators to the blossoms. The all-you-can-eat insect buffet in turn attracts birds, who also flock to the seeds in late autumn and early winter. Other great woodland asters include the Heart Leaved Aster (Aster cordifolius), the Calico Aster (Aster lateriflorus), and the Big Leaf Aster (Aster macrophyllus).

Creating or preserving riparian buffer zones has many benefits for both the environment and the landowner, including:

• reduced surface and groundwater pollution from agricultural or urban stormwater runoff
• reduced erosion
• reduced risk of floods
• improved stream health
• increased fish populations
• improved wildlife habitat
• diversified income opportunities

The ideal width of riparian buffer zones depends on the function of the buffer. (All widths are measured in one direction starting from the edge of the water.)

If erosion control is the primary goal, a 50 foot buffer zones is probably adequate. In order to remove pollutants from agricultural or urban runoff, a width of at least 66 feet is best. Most scientists consider the ideal width of a riparian buffer zone to be 100-150 feet. This provides maximum stream health and water quality benefits. However, if wildlife habitat is your primary goal, a width of 300 feet might be even better.

The ideal width of riparian zones also depends on local conditions and the lay of the land. For example, steep streambanks require wider riparian buffer zones than shallow ones.

Riparian buffer zones are divided into three parts, or zones.

Zone 1 is streamside. It should consist of a minimum of 30 feet of large trees planted in about 4-5 staggered rows, as well as dense plantings of native shrubs and ground covers, especially along the stream banks. The first one or two rows of trees should be fast growing that are tolerant of wet conditions, such as cottonwoods or willows. These will quickly begin to shade and stabilize the streambanks.

The next two or three rows should consist of slower growing, mast producing hardwoods such as oaks, walnuts, and hickories. These trees provide food and shelter for wildlife, and can be used to diversify the income of the farm or property through fruit or nut sales, lumber sales, and more.

Zone 2 should consist of at least 12 feet of small trees and shrubs. These can include soft mast producing species such as dogwood, chokecherry, and wild plum, to provide food for wildlife and additional income for the property. Zones 1 and 2 provide flood control and wildlife habitat.

Finally, zone 3 should consist of at least 20-25 feet of unmowed native warm season grasses and perennials such as switchgrass. This is the most important zone for reducing erosion and water pollution. Most sediments and pollutants are absorbed by the deep, fibrous roots of the native grasses and forbs before they ever reach zones 1 and 2.

There are a number of federal programs that offer technical assistance, cost-share programs, or grants to landowners interested in installing or improving riparian buffer zones. These include the Conservation Reserve Program.

Where To Plant A Hedgerow

The best place to plant a hedgerow depends on its purpose. Hedgerows can be used to create stock-proof “fences” around pastures, to serve as a privacy screen or hide an eyesore, to serve as a windbreak, to reduce erosion and runoff along stream banks, to serve as a wildlife corridor between two different habitats, to attract bees and other pollinators to crops, and many other uses. Plant your hedgerow where it will best meet your primary needs, and provide as many secondary benefits as possible.

When possible, choose a spot with enough room for at least two staggered rows of plants, and an uncultivated grassy area up to several yards wide on either side of the hedge, especially if you will be using chemical pesticides and herbicides nearby. The grassy buffer will help protect plants and beneficial insects in the hedge from chemical drift.

The Best Hedgerow Plants

The best plants for hedgerows depends on your region and the hedgerow’s intended purpose. For example, if you plan to use your hedgerow as a fence for livestock, you will need to choose shrubs that are very dense, while your priority for a privacy hedge in a suburban yard is likely to be beauty and aesthetic appeal. Windbreaks should emphasize evergreens and conifers, while a hedgerow intended as a wildlife corridor or haven for pollinators should include as much diversity as possible.

Whenever possible, plant 2 or more rows of plants in your hedgerow, and include a mix of several different species each of trees, shrubs, grasses, and flowering plants. Native mast-producing trees and shrubs are an especially valuable addition to wildlife hedgerows, because they provide both food and shelter to a huge variety of animals, from whitetail deer and wild turkeys to bees and butterflies. Mast producing trees and shrubs can also be used to create an “edible hedge” for humans.

If you are planting a wildlife hedge, it is especially important to plant a hedgerow that provides food and shelter in all four seasons, so plant a mix of summer and fall fruiting berries and nuts, and choose flowering plants with the goal of having at least one species in bloom from early spring to late fall.

Maintaining a Hedgerow

Selective thinning every 5-10 years can help maintain a diverse and healthy hedgerow community. Weeds should be managed by hand or with spot applications of herbicides to prevent damage to the hedge. Heavy mulching can also help keep weeds down in the early years while the hedge is becoming established.

Incentives and Grants

There are a number of government programs that can help offset the costs of planting a hedgerow through grants or cost-sharing programs, including the Wildlife Habitat Incentives Program (WHIP), the Conservation Reserve Program (CRP), and the Environmental Quality Incentives Program (EQIP).

Plant large deciduous trees on the south, west, and east sides of your house.

Well-placed deciduous trees can lower your cooling bills by up to 50% in some regions because they shade the roof, walls, and windows of your home in summertime, keeping them cooler and reducing the amount of time and effort your air conditioner needs to spend cooling your home. Shading the roof is especially important if you wish to reduce cooling bills, so if you don’t already have trees large enough to shade your roof, plant trees that will grow large enough to do so. As a side benefit, studies have found that large, mature shade trees in the yard can increase the value of a home by up to 10%.

In the winter, deciduous trees lose their leaves, allowing the sun to stream through the bare branches and warm your home, reducing heating bills.

Plant deciduous trees to shade driveways, sidewalks, patios, and streets.

Unshaded asphalt absorbs huge amounts of heat, raising the surrounding air temperatures and contributing to the urban heat island effect. Air temperatures directly under shade trees can be as much as 25 degrees lower than air temperatures above unshaded blacktop, and studies have found that summer daytime air temperatures are an average of 3-6 degrees lower in neighborhoods with many large shade trees than in neighborhoods with few trees. This reduces cooling bills for the entire neighborhood

Tree-lined streets offer a number of other surprising benefits as well. Property values in neighborhoods with tree-lined streets increase by as much as 20% over comparable neighborhoods with few trees. Other studies have found that drivers are more likely to drive responsibly down streets that are lined with trees and that families who live in tree lined neighborhoods are more likely to take regular walks and play outside. Finally, trees improve air quality in the neighborhood and reduce noise.

Plant trees or shrubs to shade your air conditioning unit.

Studies have found that shaded air conditioning units use up to 10% less energy than unshaded ones.

Plant a mix of conifer trees and shrubs on the northwest side of your house as a windbreak.

Windbreaks can reduce heating bills by up to 20% and are effective for up to eight times their own height. Plant them in an “L” or “U” shape for best results. Planting a mix of trees and shrubs shortens the period before the windbreak becomes effective and ensures that wind will be blocked both close to the ground and higher in the air.

Use evergreen shrubs as base plantings on the north wall of your house.

Planting a dense hedge of evergreen shrubs about 1-5 feet from the north wall of your home creates an insulating pocket of still air against the wall of your house, reducing heating bills.

Though the idea of temperate forest gardens was developed in Britain, it is easily adapted to North America.

Forest gardens are designed to mimic a natural woodland and are planted in up to seven distinct layers:

1. The tall tree layer consists of fruit and nut bearing trees such as chestnuts, walnuts, oaks, apples, and hickories, planted irregularly to intermix patches of sun and shade on the forest floor below.
2. The low tree layer consists of smaller understory trees such as almonds, mulberries, dogwoods, and pawpaw, as well as dwarf fruit trees.
3. The shrub layer includes fruiting shrubs such as blueberry, raspberry, hazelnut, serviceberry, elderberry, chokeberry, wild cherry, and more.
4. The herb layer includes annual and perennial vegetables, flowers, culinary herbs, and other non-woody species.
5. The ground cover layer includes a mix of low growing edible plants such as strawberries, nitrogen fixers such as clover, living mulches, and low growing flowers.
6. The root layer includes edible roots and tubers such as garlic, onions, potatoes, and Jerusalem artichoke, as well as a type of plant known as “dynamic accumulators,” whose deep root systems draw nutrients up to the soil’s surface where they can be used by other plants.
7. The vine layer includes climbing plants such as wild grapes, kiwifruit, honeysuckle, and annual vegetables such as cucumbers and squash.

The typical edible forest garden is designed to be both useful and beautiful, incorporating a mix of mast-producing trees and shrubs, vegetables and herbs, flowering plants, and garden workhorses such as nitrogen fixing plants, living mulches/cover crops, and dynamic accumulators. Many edible forest gardens also provided excellent habitat for birds and other wildlife.

The result is a self-sustaining, multistoried garden that produces copious food for humans and wildlife alike.

Learn more

• Edible Forest Gardens
• EdibleForestGardens.com
• Edible Forest Gardens: An Invitation to Adventure
• Plant an Edible Forest Garden
• Forest Farming Creates Profit Niches, Conserves Endangered Plants
• A tour of Robert Hart’s garden